The most common

The most common type of electric thermal storage heater is a resistance heater with elements encased in heat-storing ceramic. Central furnaces incorporating ceramic block are also available, although they are not as common as room heaters. Storing electrically heated hot water in an insulated storage tank is another thermal storage option.

Some storage systems attempt to use the ground underneath homes for thermal storage of heat from electric resistance cables. However, this requires painstaking installation of insulation underneath concrete slabs and all around the heating elements to minimize major heat losses to the earth. Ground storage also makes it difficult for thermostats to control indoor temperatures.

Any type of energy storage systems suffers some energy loss. If you intend to pursue an electric thermal storage system, it would be best for the system to be located within the conditioned space of your home, so that any heat lost from the system actually heats your home, rather than escaping to the outdoors. It would also be best to know how quickly heat will escape from the system. A system that leaks too much heat could cause control problems, such as the accidental overheating of your home

ELECTRIC WALL HEATERS

ELECTRIC WALL HEATERS

Electric wall heaters consist of an electric element with a reflector behind it to reflect heat into the room and usually a fan to move air through the heater. They are usually installed on interior walls because installing them in an exterior wall makes that wall difficult to insulate.

ELECTRIC THERMAL STORAGE

Some electric utilities structure their rates in a way similar to telephone companies and charge more for electricity during the day and less at night. They do this in an attempt to reduce their "peak" demand.

If you are a customer of such a utility, you may be able to benefit from a heating system that stores electric heat during nighttime hours when rates are lower. This is called an electric thermal storage heater, and while it does not save energy, it can save you money because you can take advantage of these lower rates.

ELECTRIC FURNACES

ELECTRIC FURNACES

Electric furnaces are more expensive to operate than other electric resistance systems because of their duct heat losses and the extra energy required to distribute the heated air throughout your home (which is common for any heating system that uses ducts for distribution). Heated air is delivered throughout the home through supply ducts and returned to the furnace through return ducts. If these ducts run through unheated areas, they lose some of their heat through air leakage as well as heat radiation and convection from the duct's surface.

Baseboard heaters

Baseboard heaters are usually installed underneath windows. There, the heater's rising warm air counteracts falling cool air from the cold window glass. Baseboard heaters are seldom located on interior walls because standard heating practice is to supply heat at the home's perimeter, where the greatest heat loss occurs.

Baseboard heaters should sit at least three-quarters of an inch (1.9 centimeters) above the floor or carpet. This is to allow the cooler air on the floor to flow under and through the radiator fins so it can be heated. The heater should also fit tightly to the wall to prevent the warm air from convecting behind it and streaking the wall with dust particles.

The quality of baseboard heaters varies considerably. Cheaper models can be noisy and often give poor temperature control. Look for labels from Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) and the National Electrical Manufacturer's Association (NEMA). Compare warranties of the different models you are considering.

Blowers (large fans)

Blowers (large fans) in electric furnaces move air over a group of three to seven electric resistance coils, called elements, each of which are typically rated at five kilowatts. The furnace's heating elements activate in stages to avoid overloading the home's electrical system. A built-in thermostat called a limit controller prevents overheating. This limit controller may shut the furnace off if the blower fails or if a dirty filter is blocking the airflow.

As with any furnace, it's important to clean or replace the furnace filters as recommended by the manufacturer, in order to keep the system operating at top efficiency.

ELECTRIC BASEBOARD HEATERS

Electric baseboard heaters are zonal heaters controlled by thermostats located within each room. Baseboard heaters contain electric heating elements encased in metal pipes. The pipes, surrounded by aluminum fins to aid heat transfer, run the length of the baseboard heater's housing, or cabinet. As air within the heater is warmed, it rises into the room, and cooler air is drawn into the bottom of the heater. Some heat is also radiated from the pipe, fins, and housing.

Once a system is in place

Once a system is in place, it has to be properly maintained to optimize its performance and avoid breakdowns. Different systems require different types of maintenance, and you should set up a calendar listing the maintenance tasks that the component manufacturers and installer recommends for your installation.

Most solar water heaters are automatically covered under your homeowner's insurance policy. However, damage from freezing is generally not. Contact your insurance provider to find out what its policy is. Even if your provider will cover your system, it is best to inform them in writing that you own a new system.

Special area regulations

Special area regulations—such as local community, subdivision, or homeowner's association covenants—also require compliance. These covenants, historic district regulations, and flood-plain provisions can easily be overlooked. To find out what's needed for local compliance, contact your local jurisdiction's zoning and building enforcement divisions and any appropriate homeowner, subdivision, neighborhood, and/or community association(s).

INSTALLING AND MAINTAINING YOUR SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM

How well an active solar energy system performs depends on effective siting, system design, and installation as well as the quality and durability of the components. Today’s collectors and controls are high quality, but it can still be a challenge finding an experienced contractor who can properly design and install the system

The matter of building

The matter of building code and zoning compliance for a solar system installation is typically a local issue. Even if a statewide building code is in effect, your city, county, or parish usually enforces it. Common problems homeowners have encountered with building codes include the following:

• Exceeding roof load
• Unacceptable heat exchangers
• Improper wiring
• Unlawful tampering with potable water supplies.

Potential zoning issues include these:

• Obstructing side yards
• Erecting unlawful protrusions on roofs
• Siting the system too close to streets or lot boundaries.

BUILDING CODES

BUILDING CODES, COVENANTS, AND REGULATIONS FOR SOLAR HEATING SYSTEMS

Before installing a solar energy system, you should investigate local building codes, zoning ordinances, and subdivision covenants, as well as any special regulations pertaining to the site. You will probably need a building permit to install a solar energy system on an existing building.

Not every community or municipality initially welcomes residential renewable energy installations. Although this is often due to ignorance or the comparative novelty of renewable energy systems, you must comply with existing building and permit procedures to install your system.

The only heat generato

The only heat generator in use is heat pump. No back up heater is included in the calculations.
The default degradation factor, Cd= 0.15, is used. Default is also used for hpaux (=30W) and hpsb (=10W). The test conditions are taken from the reference test conditions in table V.3. in the standard. The test point used for the calculations was the 30°C/35°C point from EN 14511 laboratory data. The model recalculates the test data to fit with the test conditions of Lot 1 (table V.2.)

points for

points for the calculation are given in a table at page 24 in LOT 10 Annex II. The heat pump is tested according to EN 14511 and CEN/TS 14825 for part load conditions.  
The heat pump is a variable capacity heat pump, but since the heat pump is not tested at exactly the required heat effect (within ±3%), the calculations of COP has to be performed in accordance with a staged capacity unit.  
At -15°C and -7°C the delivered capacity from the heat pump is lower than the house requires; capacity and COP data are taken from operation in full load at these outdoor temperatures. An exception from the standard is made, since the standard proposes a recalculation of the COP at those points. The recalculation does not seem to make sense and is therefore ignored.

At +2°C and

At +2°C and +7°C the heat delivered from the heat pump exceeds the required heat from the house and is therefore operated in part load. COP for part load operation is interpolated by using the equation for staged capacity units at page 26 in the standard. At +2°C the interpolation is made between full load operation and operation at 47% part load, at +7°C the interpolation is made between part load operation at 57% and 44% of the heat pump capacity.  
The heat pump is not tested at +12°C. Full load operation at +12°C is extrapolated from test data at +7°C and +2°C. 50% part load is extrapolated from 50% part load operation at +7°C and +2°C. COP for the required effect is extrapolated by using this data. Each extrapolated COP value is corrected with a degradation factor of 0.975.  
Default values are used for the degradation factor (Cd=0.1), turndown ratio heating (=25%), thermostat off mode (50W), crank

Analysis of the results

Analysis of the results
The results from the SPF calculations of the different heat pump installations in field is compared with the results obtained from the laboratory data used in calculation models.  
Ground source heat pumps Most of the heat pumps installed in field operates both in floor heating mode and produces domestic hot water. The measurements include both kind of operations and the results are presented in Table 14and Figure 7 below. SPF for domestic hot water production is always lower compared to operation in heating mode. The energy balances is not 100% complete for the field measurement, which is quite common in field measurements, since heat losses are present, but cannot be measured directly as they can be in the laboratory.

ASHRAE Terminology of Heating

ASHRAE Terminology of Heating, Ventilation, Air
Conditioning, & Refrigeration, 1991).
Recommended: When the term recommended is used in
this document, it means the practice or procedure is
advised or suggested.
Regulated Hazardous Materials: This includes any
substances such as asbestos or lead that are regulated
under applicable national, state and local regulations.
Requirement: Mandatory practice for compliance with
this standard.
Restoration: To bring back to, or put back into, a former
or original state.
Seal: To make secure against leakage by a fastener,
coating, or filler.
Sealant: A fastener, coating, or filler used to seal against
air leakage.

from the heat pump

At +2°C and +7°C the heat delivered from the heat pump exceeds the required heat from the house and is therefore operated in part load. COP for part load operation is interpolated by using the equation for staged capacity units at page 26 in the standard. At +2°C the interpolation is made between full load operation and operation at 47% part load, at +7°C the interpolation is made between part load operation at 57% and 44% of the heat pump capacity.  
The heat pump is not tested at +12°C. Full load operation at +12°C is extrapolated from test data at +7°C and +2°C. 50% part load is extrapolated from 50% part load operation at +7°C and +2°C. COP for the required effect is extrapolated by using this data. Each extrapolated COP value is corrected with a degradation factor of 0.975.  
Default values are used for the degradation factor (Cd=0.1), turndown ratio heating (=25%), thermostat off mode (50W), crankcase heater mode (=10W) and off mode (=10W). The bin limit is set to -20°C.

Analysis of the results

8.6 Analysis of the results
The results from the SPF calculations of the different heat pump installations in field is compared with the results obtained from the laboratory data used in calculation models.  
Ground source heat pumps Most of the heat pumps installed in field operates both in floor heating mode and produces domestic hot water. The measurements include both kind of operations and the results are presented in Table 14and Figure 7 below. SPF for domestic hot water production is always lower compared to operation in heating mode. The energy balances is not 100% complete for the field measurement, which is quite common in field measurements, since heat losses are present, but cannot be measured directly as they can be in the laboratory.

Data for part load

 Data for part load operation is calculated from equations of “option B” at page 27 in the standard, where COPmin= 0.89*COP at power output Phpmin=0.5*Php for a fixed capacity unit.
From Lot 1 two different results are obtained, “etas” and “average COP”. Etas are calculated by involving the primary energy factor of 2.5 which makes it difficult to compare with other calculated SPF. However, “average COP” corresponds to SPF 1.  
Lot 10
Air to air heat pumps The design load of the house is chosen to 8,5kW, which is the design load that best corresponds to the size of the house in the field measurement. The house in the field is installed in a climate, similar to “colder” climate, therefore “colder” is chosen. The test

Figure 7

Figure 7 The figure show SPF results from two different SPF, “heat only” and “heat and DHW” (domestic hot water heating) at two different levels, “SPF 1” and “SPF3”, from field testing.
The conditions for measurements in a laboratory and in field differ with respect to various factors e.g. the boundary conditions. SPF1 in field measurements includes the electrical energy from the heat source brine pump, while “average COP” and “SCOPnet” only includes the head losses. This could make the electrical energy use a little larger for the field measurements, but on the other hand “average COP” and “SCOPnet” also contain head losses for the heat sink side which SPF1 does not. The electrical energy from the heat sink pump for SPF1 is included in SPF3.

primarily for collecting particulate

NFPA: National Fire Protection Association.
Negative Air Machine: A HEPA-filtered air filtration
device designed primarily for collecting particulate and
limiting particulate migration while controlling workspace
pressure differentials. These machines may or may not
be ducted outside the building envelope.
Non-adhered Substance: Any material not intended or
designed to be present in an HVAC system, and which
can be removed by contact vacuuming.
Non-porous HVAC System Surface: Any surface of the
HVAC system in contact with the air stream that cannot
be penetrated by water or air, such as sheet metal,
aluminum foil, or polymetric film used to line flexible
duct.

Preliminary Determination:

Porous HVAC System Surface: Any surface of the
HVAC system in contact with the air stream that is
capable of penetration by either water or air. Examples
include fiber glass duct liner, fiber glass duct board,
wood, and concrete.
Preliminary Determination: A conclusion drawn from the
collection, analysis and summary of information obtained
during an initial inspection and evaluation to identify
areas of moisture intrusion and actual or potential mold
growth (IICRC S520).
Pressure Drop: (1) Loss in pressure, as from one end of
a refrigerant line to the other, from friction, static, heat,
etc.; (2) Difference in pressure between two points in a
flow system, usually caused by frictional resistance to
fluid flow in a conduit, filter or other flow system (See

North American Insulation Manufacturers Association.

NAIMA: North American Insulation Manufacturers
Association.
OSHA: United States Occupational Safety and Health
Administration.
Panel: (1) Fabricated section of metal making up the
structural shell of a piece of mechanical equipment. (2)
Patch of sheet metal used for closing a service opening.
Particulate: Any non-adhered substance present in the
HVAC system that can be removed by contact
vacuuming.
Permanent: The life of the system.
Plastic Plug: Round polyethylene cap used to close 1"-3"
openings in sheet metal duct. (Note: the materials used
in the manufacture of these devices often exceed the
indices for flame spread and smoke spread as set forth
in NFPA 90A & 90B)

IAQA: Indoor Air Quality Association.

IAQA: Indoor Air Quality Association.
Indoor Environmental Professional (IEP): An individual
who is qualified by education, training and experience to
perform an assessment of the fungal ecology of
property, systems and contents at the job site, create a
sampling strategy, sample the indoor environment,
interpret laboratory data, determine Condition 1, 2 and 3
status for the purpose of establishing a scope of work
and verify the return of the fungal ecology to a Condition
1 status (See IICRC S520).
Inspection: A gathering of information for use in making
determinations and assessments.

The heating, ventilation, and air

HVAC System: The heating, ventilation, and air
conditioning (HVAC) system includes any interior
surface of the facility’s air distribution system for
conditioned spaces and/or occupied zones. This
includes the entire heating, air-conditioning, and
ventilation system from the points where the air enters
the system to the points where the air is discharged from
the system. The return air grilles, return air ducts to the
air-handling unit (AHU), the interior surfaces of the AHU,
mixing box, coil compartment, condensate drain pans,
humidifiers and dehumidifiers, supply air ducts, fans, fan
housing, fan blades, air wash systems, spray
eliminators, turning vanes, filters, filter housings, reheat
coils, and supply diffusers are all considered part of the
HVAC system. The HVAC system may also include
other components such as dedicated exhaust and
ventilation components and make-up air systems

Flange:

Flange: Outer rim of an access door frame provided to
attach the frame to the duct.
HEPA: High Efficiency Particulate Air. To be called a
true HEPA filter, or certified HEPA filter the filter must
have a documented filtration efficiency of 99.97% at 0.3
micron-sized particles.
Highly Recommended: When the term highly
recommended is used in this document, it means the
practice or procedure is a component of the accepted
“standard of care” to be followed, though not mandatory
by regulatory requirement.

The heat pump

The heat pump is not tested at +12°C. Full load operation at +12°C is extrapolated from test data at +7°C and +2°C. 50% part load is extrapolated from 50% part load operation at +7°C and +2°C. COP for the required effect is extrapolated by using this data. Each extrapolated COP value is corrected with a degradation factor of 0.975.  
Default values are used for the degradation factor (Cd=0.1), turndown ratio heating (=25%), thermostat off mode (50W), crankcase heater mode (=10W) and off mode (=10W). The bin limit is set to -20°C

At +2°C and +

At +2°C and +7°C the heat delivered from the heat pump exceeds the required heat from the house and is therefore operated in part load. COP for part load operation is interpolated by using the equation for staged capacity units at page 26 in the standard. At +2°C the interpolation is made between full load operation and operation at 47% part load, at +7°C the interpolation is made between part load operation at 57% and 44% of the heat pump capacity

points for the

points for the calculation are given in a table at page 24 in LOT 10 Annex II. The heat pump is tested according to EN 14511 and CEN/TS 14825 for part load conditions.  
The heat pump is a variable capacity heat pump, but since the heat pump is not tested at exactly the required heat effect (within ±3%), the calculations of COP has to be performed in accordance with a staged capacity unit.  
At -15°C and -7°C the delivered capacity from the heat pump is lower than the house requires; capacity and COP data are taken from operation in full load at these outdoor temperatures. An exception from the standard is made, since the standard proposes a recalculation of the COP at those points. The recalculation does not seem to make sense and is therefore ignored

Data for part load

Data for part load operation is calculated from equations of “option B” at page 27 in the standard, where COPmin= 0.89*COP at power output Phpmin=0.5*Php for a fixed capacity unit.
From Lot 1 two different results are obtained, “etas” and “average COP”. Etas are calculated by involving the primary energy factor of 2.5 which makes it difficult to compare with other calculated SPF. However, “average COP” corresponds to SPF 1

The only heat

The only heat generator in use is heat pump. No back up heater is included in the calculations.
The default degradation factor, Cd= 0.15, is used. Default is also used for hpaux (=30W) and hpsb (=10W). The test conditions are taken from the reference test conditions in table V.3. in the standard. The test point used for the calculations was the 30°C/35°C point from EN 14511 laboratory data. The model recalculates the test data to fit with the test conditions of Lot 1 (table V.2.).

At -7°C the heat pump

At -7°C the heat pump operates in full load to deliver heat to the house. At +2°C and at +7°C the heat pump operates in part load. COP for part load operation is interpolated by using linear interpolation between existing test points. At +2°C the interpolation is made between full load operation and operation at 47% part load, at +7°C the interpolation is made between part load operation at 50% and 57% of the heat pump capacity. At +12°C the required heat load is so small that the heat pump is assumed to cycle on/off. The capacity of this point is calculated by using equation 11 in the standard. The COP for the bivalent point is interpolated from test points in full load operation at +2°C and -7°C

The test conditions

The test conditions for the heat pumps were taken from Table 20 in the standard, brine to water heat pump, average climate and low temperature application. The unit is assumed to be a fixed capacity unit with fixed outlet temperature. The heat pumps in the study where all tested in full load according to EN 14511. For the part load conditions the COP was calculated by using equation 12 in the standard. The test point used for the calculations was the 30°C/35°C point from EN 14511 laboratory data. The capacity and COP at Tbivalent and TOL is set to the maximum, while the COP for the delivered capacity at the different outdoor temperatures is calculated by using equations from the standard prEN14825. The default degradation factor where Cc=0.9 is used.

How Do Ductless Heat Pumps Work?

How Do Ductless Heat Pumps Work?  

A ductless heat pump transfers air using refrigerant expansion and compression, the same way your refrigerator operates. It works in the summer to cool, but more importantly, works in reverse in the winter to provide ample amounts of heat.

Ductless heat pumps have three main parts: 

1. An indoor unit that mounts on the wall or ceiling
2. An outdoor unit that typically sits on the ground
3. A remote control that operates the inside unit

The indoor and outdoor units are connected by small refrigerant lines, which are installed through a very small hole in the wall. The indoor unit then distributes the heated or cooled air into the room. The units are smaller than conventional air conditioning equipment and less intrusive. This type of system allows for easy and inexpensive installation because it eliminates the need for expensive and invasive ductwork.

Air to air heat pump

Air to air heat pumps The data for SPF calculations regarding air to air heat pumps are taken from the field measurements. There are no laboratory data available for the heat pumps tested in the field study.  
The colder climate is chosen for the calculations, since this climate is similar to the climate where the field installation is. The bivalent operation point of the heat pump is calculated by using SPA3528, which is another model for the calculation of SPF. The bivalent point is 0°C. The operation limit point is set to -20°C

ductless heat pum

 ductless heat pump, or mini-split heat pump, is a highly efficient heating and cooling system that is easily installed as a new primary heat source. They can heat and cool homes at a fraction of the cost of baseboards and wall heaters, and their superior air distribution helps make living spaces more comfortable. They are well-suited to homes with open floor plans.

Ductless heat pumps are especially effective for electrically heated homes or areas where ductwork does not exist or is not possible. They are also a good option for home remodeling, additions, and new construction.

Studies have shown ductless heat pumps can save 25-50 percent on energy bills. These are competitively priced and the systems are available from many well-known manufacturers. Their ease of installation also keeps costs low compared to other heating and cooling methods.  Systems must have Inverter technology; this is a type that utilizes a high efficiency variable speed compressor.

How do I know what size system my house needs?

 How do I know what size system my house needs?
To be sure you get a system that best suits your needs, consult with one or more
registered installers before purchasing a system.
Q: What is a Registered Installer?
A registered installer is a contractor who has registered with Efficiency Maine to
install ductless heat pumps. In order to register, the contractor must agree to follow
Efficiency Maine’s Code of Conduct, has shown proof of insurance, has completed
Energy Star Heat Pump Manufacturer installation training, and has EPA Section 608
Refrigerant Handling certification.

Are ductless heat pumps quiet? 4

Are ductless heat pumps quiet? 4
Although ductless heat pumps are remarkably quiet during operation, they do make
noises. In addition to the low-level fan sound (both indoor and outdoor units), you
may also hear “whirring”, “clicking”, “rushing fluid”, etc. These sounds can be the
result of thermal expansion, refrigerant movement, or mechanical parts. This is
normal. As you encounter these sounds, please refer to the owner’s manual for
indications. If the indications are for abnormal operation or if you become concerned,
call your contractor

How long will a ductless heat pump last?

How long will a ductless heat pump last?
With proper maintenance and care, a ductless heat pump should perform for 15-20
years. Many of the systems installed during the 1980s are still functioning well today.
If you can smell salt air where you plan to put a heat pump, they won’t last that long
due to the salt corrosion on the outdoor unit.
Q: What kind of maintenance does a ductless heat pump require?
Dust filters should be vacuumed or washed as needed and allergen cartridges
should be washed or replaced according to manufacturers’ recommendations. The
outside unit should be professionally cleaned every year or two, which costs about
the same as having a boiler or furnace cleaned

Do all heat pump

Do all heat pumps qualify for the Efficiency Maine rebate?
No, not all heat pumps qualify for a rebate. Only the most efficient ductless, mini-split
heat pumps with an HSPF rating of 10 or greater are eligible for a rebate under this
program. There is a complete list on www.efficiencymaine.com.
Q. Is there a lower electric heating rate and how do I qualify?
Yes, we offer electric space heating rate from October to April. In most cases,
applicants who have had a heat pump installed through this program will be eligible
and will be automatically enrolled.

What incentives are available for ductless heat pumps?

 What incentives are available for ductless heat pumps?
Emera Maine offers a discounted electric heat rate to customers when they install an
efficient ductless heat pump system. Efficiency Maine offers a rebate of $500 on
ductless heat pump and $300 on air to water heat pumps. For program details, visit
www.emeramaine.com.
Federal Tax Credits: A federal tax credit up to $300 is also available to taxpayers
who purchase a qualified energy-efficient, residential, ductless heat pump

incorporates

Ventilating (the V in HVAC) is the methodology of "changing" or supplanting air in any space to give high indoor air quality (i.e. to control temperature, recharge oxygen, or evacuate dampness, smells, smoke, hotness, dust, airborne microscopic organisms, and carbon dioxide). Ventilation is utilized to evacuate obnoxious scents and over the top dampness, present outside air, to keep inside building air flowing, and to counteract stagnation of the inner part air.

Ventilation incorporates both the trade of air to the outside and flow of air inside the building. It is a standout amongst the most critical components for keeping up adequate indoor air quality in structures. Routines for ventilating an incorporating may be separated with mechanical/constrained and regular types.[1]

Methods for ventilating

Ventilation includes both the exchange of air to the outside as well as circulation of air within the building. It is one of the most important factors for maintaining acceptable indoor air quality in buildings. Methods for ventilating a building may be divided into mechanical/forced and natural types.[1]

Ventilating

Ventilating (the V in HVAC) is the process of "changing" or replacing air in any space to provide high indoor air quality (i.e. to control temperature, replenish oxygen, or remove moisture, odors, smoke, heat, dust, airborne bacteria, and carbon dioxide). Ventilation is used to remove unpleasant smells and excessive moisture, introduce outside air, to keep interior building air circulating, and to prevent stagnation of the interior air

Visual review

Visual review for cleanliness as delineated in Chapter 3 ought to be joined as a feature of the HVAC preventive upkeep timetable and ought to incorporate all segments of the framework. The obliged recurrence of examination will change relying upon building use, inhabitant burden, topographical area, and encompassing environment. As a rule, most HVAC frameworks ought to be reviewed yearly or semiannually for cleanliness.

Assets

Assets and Guidelines  Included with this sheet is the National Air Duct Cleaners Association General Specifications for the Cleaning of Commercial HVAC Systems. This particular speaks to the base prerequisites for cleaning business HVAC frameworks and can be utilized as a rule for building managers creating their own particular determination.

Deciding

Deciding HVAC System Cleanliness  HVAC framework cleanliness ought to be assessed by visual examination or an endorsed vacuum test system as laid out in fitting NADCA gauges. A HVAC inner part surface is considered noticeably clean when it is free of non-followed trash. Vacuum test routines incorporate visual surface examination of "clean" territories previously, then after the fact vacuuming and also inspecting a known surface territory to focus the net weight of garbage for every zone inspected to contrast with a worthy NADCA level

The occasional

The occasional cleaning of HVAC frameworks may be important to guarantee conveyance of satisfactory air to the indoor environment. Cleaning may be needed on more seasoned frameworks that have not been appropriately kept up, harmed frameworks, or in unique cases, for example, after far reaching indoor or outside development exercises. HVAC framework cleaning is costly and conceivably problematic to ordinary operations so all conceivable wellsprings of IAQ issues ought to be examined and rectified preceding deciding the requirement for framework cleaning. Successive cleaning of HVAC frameworks ought not be obliged if the framework is legitimately kept up as illustrated in Chapter 3 of this archive.

2.02 HVAC SYSTEM INSPECTION AND SITE PREPARATIONS

2.02 HVAC SYSTEM INSPECTION AND SITE PREPARATIONS
(A) HVAC System Component Inspections
Prior to the commencement of any cleaning work, the HVAC system cleaning contractor shall
perform a visual inspection of the HVAC system to determine appropriate methods, tools, and
equipment required to satisfactorily complete this project. The cleanliness inspection should
include air handling units and representative areas of the HVAC system components and
ductwork. In HVAC systems that include multiple air handling units, a representative sample of
the units should be inspected.
(B) The cleanliness inspection shall be conducted without negatively impacting the indoor
environment through excessive disruption of settled dust, microbial amplification or other debris.
In cases where contamination is suspected, and/or in sensitive environments where even small
amounts of contaminant may be of concern, environmental engineering control measures should
be implemented
1. Damaged system components found during the inspection shall be documented
and brought to the attention of the owner.

1 SCOPE OF WORK

1 SCOPE OF WORK
(A) The scope of work for this project will include cleaning of all HVAC ductwork and accessories
at the Putnam Elementary School, Middle School and High School. The extent of ductwork to be
cleaned shall be determined by review of available construction documents and field verification.
(B) The Contractor shall be responsible for the removal of visible surface contaminants and
deposits from within the HVAC system in strict accordance with these specifications.
(C) The HVAC system includes any interior surface of the facility’s air distribution system for
conditioned spaces and/or occupied zones. This includes all Heating, Ventilating and Air
Conditioning systems from the points where the air enters the system to the points where the air is
discharged from the system. The return air grilles, return air ducts to the air handling unit (AHU),
interior surfaces of the AHU, mixing box, coil compartment, condensate drain pans, supply air
ducts, fans, fan housing, fan blades, turning vanes, filters, filter housings, reheat coils, and supply
diffusers are all considered part of the HVAC system. The HVAC system may also include other
components such as dedicated exhaust and ventilation components and make-up air systems.
The Kitchen Hood Exhaust systems are not included in the scope of wor

Assess the need for interlocking the ventilation power

Assess the need for interlocking the ventilation power
supply to the gas supply and take appropriate action.
This decision should be based on a competent
persons’ assessment of the risks associated with the
use of the gas appliance.
Further guidance for designers is available from
industry produced technical guidance, for example
guidance from The Chartered Institution of Building
Services Engineers (CIBSE) and The Heating and
Ventilation Contractors’ Association (HVCA) (see
‘Further information’).
The equipment installer
The equipment should be installed by a competent
person. The equipment installer needs to know the
design performance and capacity of the ventilation
system, so they can ensure adequate ventilation.
For existing installations where data is absent or
unavailable, the installer should recommission the
system of extraction and make-up air, and produce a
report detailing its performance. A competent heating
and ventilation specialist can provide this information.
Gas-fired appliances should be installed by a Gas
Safe engineer.

The presence of gas appliances subject to the

The presence of gas appliances subject to the
Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations
1998. In particular, the requirement for an
adequate supply of air for combustion and flueing
arrangements.
■ kitchen usage information from the caterer;
■ equipment information from the caterer or
supplier, eg cleaning requirements, the amount
of air required for complete combustion, and the
performance of the existing installation;
■ the requirements or specifications for the air
cleaning system, eg for grease removal at the
canopy and also before final discharge outside;
■ the limitations of the building, eg the available
room may influence the sites and routes for air
inlets or discharges;
■ food hygiene requirements, eg identify a suitable
source for clean make-up air; prevent pest entry;
avoid grease accumulation and ensure easy
cleaning of the system;

The building owner or manager

The building owner or manager
The owner or manager of the building may provide
facilities such as equipment and ventilation. In these
cases, they should follow the advice here. Providing
adequate ventilation will require the owner to obtain
information on probable kitchen usage from the caterer.
The designer/design team
The ‘design team’ means the various interested parties
(owner, caterer, designer, supplier and installer). They
need to discuss their respective information needs and
what information each should supply

New ventilation systems

New ventilation systems
The caterer
The caterer will need to provide detailed information
for the competent advisor, designer and installer,
including the following information:
■ maximum demands likely to be placed on the
ventilation (eg to cope with peaks of activity);
■ amount and type of kitchen equipment;
■ the menu;
■ number of meals; and
■ number of staff.
Advisors, suppliers and installers should be
competent and have knowledge of industry practice
and relevant health and safety guidance and
legislation.
The caterer should consult with the safety or
employee representatives in good time about any
significant changes.
The caterer should keep records of design
criteria, commissioning performance, maintenance
requirements, and of tests and inspections. These
enable maintenance, modification, and testing against
the original specification.

Discharge

Discharge
High-level discharge of extracted air is often needed to
prevent nuisance to neighbouring properties. Avoid rain
caps and other devices that impede upward vertical
velocity. Never use devices that direct the discharge
downward as they encourage down draught and
re-entry of fumes into the building. Fume discharge
should also be away from wet cooling towers.

Airtherm

Airtherm have a large range of both metal and uPvc dampers in circular, square and rectangular shapes with sizes from 300mm to 1800mm.
Volume control dampers need not be overly complicated. The only requirements are that they should have a low leakage when closed, not create too much resistance when open and should be easy to operate.
Series VCD Volume Control Dampers satisfy all of these requirements - the 75mm blade pitch with a blade less than 1cm thick at it's widest point, results in very little resistance when open, while the standard blade is shaped perfectly to reduce leakage when close

How long has the

1. Can the company show proof of NADCA membership and certification? 
2. How long has the contractor been in the residential HVAC system cleaning business? 
3. Can the contractor provide you with evidence of the current Worker’s Compensation and General Liability Insurance 
4. coverage? (Ask for Certificate of Insurance) 
5. Does the contractor posses the proper Licenses that are required by your city or state to perform the work they are 
6. proposing? (Not all cities or states require licenses - click here to check your state.) 
7. Can the contractor provide you with 3 to 5 customer references with phone numbers for projects of similar size and scope 
8. of work which they provided service in the last year? 
9. Does the contractor have written safety, respiratory, and confined space programs in addition to OSHA compliance 
10. reports? 
11. Will the contractor provide you with a means to conduct a visual inspection at any time during the cleaning? (Mirror and 
12. flashlight, camera or other remote visual systems) 
13. Will the contracting company actually do the work? (Some companies subcontract the work to independent contractors. 
14. You will want to apply these guidelines for subcontractors as well.) 
15. Will the company be assigning an Air Systems Cleaning Specialist (ASCS) to your project that will be responsible for the 
16. complete project? 
17. If there is any remediation of mold or other biological contamination does the company have a Ventilation System Mold 

UV Filtration

UV Filtration A UV filtration system can reduce grease build-up and common odours by using UV light to break down organic material that can plague kitchen canopies.
UV filtration reduces the need for duct work cleaning and can prove more efficient than conventional filtration methods.
The UV Filtration works by using UVC lamps to break down organic material by a combination of photolysis and ozonolysis and destroys odours more efficiently and cost effectively than conventional systems.

Unvented hotness

Unvented hotness in the mid year disintegrates material materials and brings down vitality proficiency.

Amid hot climate, legitimate ventilation can ensure top shingles, make your home feel cooler, and diminish cooling expenses. See figure 1.

In hot climate, temperatures inside a shamefully vented upper room can move to in excess of 150 degrees Fahrenheit, making it feel like a sauna.

These high storage room temperatures can prompt quickened shingle contortion and weakening.

Canopy Lighting

Canopy Lighting The lighting units are designed and manufactured to deal with wide ranging and varied commercial applications and can deal with humidity, condense rich, and hot and greasy environments.  
These units are normally recessed into the canopy ceiling providing easy cleaning and maintenance of the unit exterior. This also helps to greatly reduce the build-up of grease and other contaminates usually associated with the commercial kitchen environment.
All of our lighting units are approved for use in commercial kitchen applications, meet with DW172 & HSE guidelines.
Face plates are satin finished, stainless steel to match the hood interior

Maintenance & Contract

Maintenance  & Contracts In our pursuit of customer satisfaction we have now introduced our tailored service contracts which offer complete peace of mind, covering unexpected costs from system isolation and dissatisfied customers of your own.
All of our maintenance contracts are made to meet the demands set by the client and the specific requirements dictated by the unique design and layout of the ventilation system. Our engineers will visit the client’s premises at regular planned intervals to carry out agreed works and report to the client ensuring the system remains efficient and reliable when they need it most.  
It is crucial to regularly service your ventilation system not only to maintain correct function and avoid lost revenue from unplanned closure of your premises but also to minimise the risk of fire and other health and safety factors.
By entering into a maintenance agreement with us, you are fulfilling your obligation ensuring procedures are in place for regular checks.
Design

Installation

Installation   Our installation engineers are competent in their field. The all carry the necessary site certification with CSCS cards and hold the relevant safety accreditations. Our engineers strive towards excellence in each and every project they undertake and are carefully vetted to ensure that they are fully trained and have adequate experience in their field of operation.
Airtherm strive to keep up with the changing demands of the industry in order to maintain our proud position as a market leader. From design to installation, after sales to maintenance, Airtherm Engineering Ltd have an ongoing commitment to provide the best available service for the customer.
By managing projects closely, adhering to strict safety guidelines and demanding the highest quality workmanship, we continue to build our reputation for completing projects on time and within budget using the most efficient solutions
We hold CHAS, Construction Online & Safe Contractor accreditations to satisfy clients of our commitment to Health & Safet

System calculations

System calculations are quickly available by entering the appliance details and the intended kitchen canopy configuration and dimensions into our iCalc sizing system.
We work closely with local authorities, M&E Engineers and main contractors to ensure full compliance to current legislation.
Airtherm’s design department, contract engineers and site installation teams have a wide range of knowledge and experience.
Projects are carried out to ensure full compliance with all statutory requirements and standards.
Whatever the requirements of your project, we guarantee a solution of the highest quality, that has been rigorously tested and offers outstanding performance in its field.
AutoCAD drawings are produced by our highly experience team of engineers for approval

All filters are manufacture

All filters are manufacture from stainless steel and provided with grips for easy removal and installation.
Baffle grease filters collect grease and stop flames from penetrating into the hood exhaust ductwork.
They are designed to prevent flames from passing through the baffles and can withstand various temperature levels. The solid baffle construction of each hood filter ensures a reliable flame barrier when you need it.
Practising efficient grease removal lowers the risk of incidents such as flare-up

These high attic temperatures

These high attic temperatures can lead to accelerated shingle distortion and deterioration.

These high attic temperatures also can lead to higher energy consumption: Typically, on a hot day, the upper rooms of a home are warmer because warm (lighter) air rises while cooler (denser) air falls. However, when improper attic ventilation allows the attic to become super-heated, the phenomenon of downward heat migration occurs (through the attic floor and into the home’s upper floors). This makes the upper floors of the home even warmer. The extra heating of the upper floors is not usually alleviated by the night time; an inadequately ventilated attic seldom loses enough heat overnight to compensate for the heat gained during the day. This effect is magnified in modern homes with heavier insulation that prevents heat from escaping from the upper floors. The extra heating of the upper floors due to the downward migration of heat causes homeowners to run mechanical equipment, such as air conditioners and window fans, longer than they otherwise would in order to cool down the home. In this way, inadequately ventilated attics contribute to greater energy consumption in higher utility bills during the summer.

Unvented heat

Unvented heat in the summer deteriorates roofing materials and lowers energy efficiency.

During hot weather, proper ventilation can protect roof shingles, make your home feel cooler, and reduce air conditioning costs. See figure 1.

In hot weather, temperatures inside an improperly vented attic can climb to over 150 degrees Fahrenheit, making it feel like a sauna.

Trickling dampnes

Trickling dampness additionally can infiltrate into the upper room floor and, in the long run, into the roof underneath. On the off chance that this happens, the top-floor roofs may display water stains and paint harm. At the point when this sort of harm is unmistakable, that is a decent risk that the surrounding material behind the sheetrock has additionally been harmed by dampnes

lot of water

In the event that a lot of water douses into the protection, it can get to be packed and lose its protecting force. We have even seen ice gems that framed all through fiberglass protection. At the point when the protection is in this condition, it loses some of its protecting force. This prompts more prominent high temperature misfortune, colder rooms, a more noteworthy request on the heater, and to higher service bills.

Ice gathering on the underside of a top.

Ice gathering on the underside of a top.

Ice gathering on the underside of a top.

This dampness reasons harm in two ways. First and foremost, dampness consolidating on the top's structural incorporating parts will splash with the wood. This can prompt wood decay and the crumbling of material materials. Second, dampness in the end will trickle onto the building parts underneath.

Issues emerge

Issues emerge amid cool temperatures when warm, soggy air from the home achieves the storage room, is not vented to the outside, and it waits in the cooler and drier loft. As the dew point is arrived at, water vapor held in the hotter air gathers on cool upper room surfaces — building parts, for example, rafters, trusses, and top sheathing. See figure 2. In the winter, amid low temperatures, the dense dampness can show up as ice.

Particle Pollution

Particle Pollution

Particle pollution, also known as particulate matter (PM), includes the very fine dust, soot, smoke, and droplets that are formed from chemical reactions, and produced when fuels such as coal, wood, or oil are burned. For example, sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxide gases from motor vehicles, electric power generation, and industrial facilities react with sunlight and water vapor to form particles. Particles may also come from fireplaces, wood stoves, unpaved roads, crushing and grinding operations, and may be blown into the air by the wind.

these pollutants

EPA calls these pollutants "criteria" air pollutants because it regulates them by developing human healthbased and/or environmentally-based criteria (sciencebased guidelines) for setting permissible levels. The set of limits based on human health is called primary standards. Another set of limits intended to prevent environmental and property damage is called secondary standards. A geographic area with air quality that is cleaner than the primary standard is called an "attainment" area; areas that do not meet the primary standard are called "nonattainment" areas.

Six common air pollutant

Six common air pollutants (also known as "criteria pollutants") are found all over the United States. They are particle pollution (often referred to as particulate matter), ground-level ozone, carbon monoxide, sulfur oxides, nitrogen oxides, and lead. These pollutants can harm your health and the environment, and cause property damage. Of the six pollutants, particle pollution and ground-level ozone are the most widespread health threats. Details about these two pollutants are discussed below. For information about the other common pollutants, visit EPA's website at

Improving Indoor Air Quality Really Works

Improving Indoor Air Quality Really Works

“The good news is that this stuff is proven to work,” Schachter says. “By increasing ventilation and avoiding use of irritating substances, you will lower levels of known irritants. Some symptoms such as headache and sore throat will go away quickly, while others -- such as asthma-like wheezing -- can take a while to disappear as the airways become less reactive.” 

Secondhand Smoke

Secondhand Smoke

Secondhand smoke from tobacco is a huge indoor air offender, experts say. “In terms of irritants, tobacco smoke is a threat to everyone,” Nelson says. “Passive smoke is a risk factor for asthma in children and increases the possibility of a non-smoker developing lung cancer or chronic obstructive pulmonary disease." This long-term lung disease, also called COPD, includes both chronic bronchitis and emphysema.

The solution is simple: Just say no to smoking in your home. If guests must smoke, ask them to go outside.

Better Air Quality Indoors: Evicting Dust Mites continued.

Better Air Quality Indoors: Evicting Dust Mites continued...

Air conditioning can keep humidity down and reduce dust mite allergens tenfold.  If you don’t have air conditioning, try a dehumidifier.  You can measure humidity with a hygrometer, available at hardware stores.

Impermeable covers on mattresses and pillows can also help keep these unwanted guests off your bedding. Wash bedding (and washable stuffed toys) once a week in hot water and dry them thoroughly.

Reduce dust by dusting often with a damp (not dry) cloth or dust mop.  Vacuum upholstered furniture, drapes, and rugs thoroughly once a week, preferably with a vacuum with a HEPA filter.

Better yet, remove wall-to-wall carpeting and large area rugs, especially in the bedroom. “These can be havens for dust mites,” Calhoun says. “We don’t like to get out of bed and have our feet hit a hard wood floor, but a smooth, hard surface is best if you are sensitive to dust mites.”

Better Air Quality Indoors: Evicting Dust Mites

Better Air Quality Indoors: Evicting Dust Mites

There are the pets we love and invite into our homes and beds, and then there are those uninvited guests like house dust mites.

These creepy, crawly microscopic critters are the most common cause of allergies from house dust. They can be found where you sleep (your pillows and mattresses), where you relax (upholstered furniture), and where you walk (your carpeting). What’s more, they float into the air when you vacuum, walk on a carpet, or ruffle your bedding.

What can you do? Plenty!

Dust mites love humid air, so keep house humidity below 30 or 35 percent. “House dust mites don’t tolerate dryness well, so you don’t want to run a humidifier in the bedroom to encourage their growth if you are allergic,” Nelson says.

Background air leakage

Background air leakage

Some features will provide low-level background movement of air between your home's interior and exterior. This is often called air infiltration, and can cause draughts and heat loss in winter. For example:

• timber joinery around windows and doors
• flues and chimneys
• recessed ceiling and light fittings
• extractor fan grills.

It is better to plan good ventilation together with a well-insulated house, than rely on leaks and draughts which you cannot control when you need to and won’t necessarily ventilate the right places.

Active ventilation

Options

Options

The appropriate ventilation options for your home will depend on the climate and microclimate of the area you live in, and what prevailing breezes there are. As a rule of thumb, the area of windows, doors and other vents that can be opened up to the outside should be at least 5% of the floor area for each living space - and more for high-use areas.

Some points to consider:

• Windows or other openings on opposite sides of your home will help draw air through.
• Opening windows on the south and east side are best for allowing cool breeze into your home from early in the day. Openings on the north and west sides, higher up, will keep the air moving.
• Vents or other openings in the roof or on upper floors will allow air to escape as heat rises.
• Built-in vents, louvres, slots and gaps in door or window framing can provide low-level ventilation over long periods without creating draughts or security risks.
• Different types of window can be used to guide air into your home - for example, side opening windows are better at catching breezes and pulling them into the house, than awning opening windows
• If your home is on more than one level, make sure there are opening windows and doors on each level. As hot air rises, high windows which can be left open on upper floors can be a good way of ventilating your house during summer.
• Fly screens and security stays installed on windows mean they can be left open at night, or when you’re out during the day, to help the house keep cool in summer
• Don’t forget to ensure cross-ventilation under your floor to get rid of dampness (seeMoisture for more information)

Passive ventilation

Passive ventilation

How does it work?

Passive ventilation uses doors, windows, vents, louvres and other openings to bring fresh air into your home and let stale air out. The size and placement of these openings can be used to guide air into and through your home.

Where cooling is required, windows or other openings on upper levels can be opened to let warm air escape. In winter, well-designed passive ventilation refreshes the air in your home without creating draughts or letting out too much heat.

Passive ventilation can only work if air has clear, uninterrupted pathways through your home. You can maximise air flow by designing open plan areas or having high vents or other openings between rooms. In general, windows should be larger on one side of the home than the other in order to encourage air flow.

If your home is designed for passive ventilation, all you'll need to do is open and close windows, doors or other vents as needed to reduce the temperature and improve the quality of the air you're breathing.

When should you think about ventilation?

When should you think about ventilation?

Planning a home or renovation

If you're building or renovating, ventilation should be considered early in the design process.

Good design should strike a balance between the need to introduce fresh, healthy air into your home and the need to maintain comfortable temperatures, so ventilation should be considered alongside passive heating and passive cooling options. If you consider heating without ventilation, you may end up with a home that's warm but not as healthy or comfortable to live in as it could be.

During and after construction

During the construction process and for a few weeks afterwards, you'll need to provide good ventilation to minimise your exposure to airborne pollutants such as formaldehyde from new building materials. See Unhealthy air for more.

In your existing home

In your existing home

Ventilation can be improved in an existing home without making significant alterations. Moving a door or window, or removing an internal wall might make a significant difference.

For ventilation to work as effectively as it should, your home should be well insulated. Then you can control your ventilation, rather than being draughty and cold.

Older homes tend to be less airtight than more modern homes. This can allow for some natural ventilation - but can also mean they're draughty and harder to heat. As a general rule of thumb, houses built before the 1960s will be very draughty, and houses built between the 1960s and 1980s will be quite draughty.  Modern construction, however, is much more airtight, meaning that problems with inadequate ventilation become more frequent.

Ventilation

Pic: Craig Robertson Photography for Beacon Pathway Ltd

With good ventilation, your home will be drier, healthier and more comfortable.

Ventilation is about helping air to circulate in your home. It allows moisture and airborne pollutants to escape, and fresh, clean air to be drawn into your home. Well-designed ventilation will provide cooling in summer. In winter, it will let stale air out but keep warmth in.

Effective ventilation depends to a significant extent on the size, placement and type of windows, doors and other openings in your home. With good design, you can control the circulation of air, rather than having draughts.

With good design, you can use windows, vents and other openings for most ventilation – this will save on your energy costs.  However, you may need some mechanical (active) ventilation, for example, extractor fans to expel moist air from the kitchen, bathroom and laundry outside.

ON THIS PAGE

Does ventilation matter?

When should you think about ventilation?

Passive ventilation

Active ventilation

More information

Does ventilation matter?

Yes. A 2005 BRANZ survey of the condition of New Zealand homes found that many were damp and poorly ventilated.

Most bathrooms relied only on windows for ventilation. Only half of kitchens vented moist air to the outside. And 40% of timber-framed homes had poor or seriously inadequate subfloor ventilation.

Poor ventilation allows moisture and airborne pollutants to build up inside your home. This can cause health problems such as asthma for you and other members of your household. Moisture can also make your home uncomfortable to live in and damage its structure.

Ventilation

Pic: Craig Robertson Photography for Beacon Pathway Ltd

With good ventilation, your home will be drier, healthier and more comfortable.

Ventilation is about helping air to circulate in your home. It allows moisture and airborne pollutants to escape, and fresh, clean air to be drawn into your home. Well-designed ventilation will provide cooling in summer. In winter, it will let stale air out but keep warmth in.

Effective ventilation depends to a significant extent on the size, placement and type of windows, doors and other openings in your home. With good design, you can control the circulation of air, rather than having draughts.

With good design, you can use windows, vents and other openings for most ventilation – this will save on your energy costs.  However, you may need some mechanical (active) ventilation, for example, extractor fans to expel moist air from the kitchen, bathroom and laundry outside.

Geothermal Heat Pump System

Geothermal Heat Pump System 

Traditional heat pumps do the same thing as air conditioners but in winter, they do it in reverse, drawing their heat energy from the outside air. Geothermal heat pumps don't have to rely on the potentially wide temperature swings of outdoor air. They tap into the relatively consistent and more moderate temperatures of the earth instead. Using your yard, pond or well water, this ingenious technology enables you to enjoy higher energy efficiency inside your home—no matter how extreme the weather gets outside.

There are geothermal systems that can serve homes with ductwork or homes with radiant heat. The radiant heat versions are referred to as hydronic systems and some of those can also provide you with all your hot water needs.

A geothermal system can be used to provide all of your heating and cooling needs or you can pair it with a furnace for a dual fuel heating solution.

Packaged systems

Packaged systems

Some homes just don’t have space inside for a furnace or the coil needed for cooling. That doesn’t mean they can’t be filled with the same comfort and improved air quality of a split system home.

Packaged units tend to all look alike but can do vastly different things:

• Cool only as an air conditioner
• Cool and heat as an electric heat pump
• Cool and heat as a Hybrid Heat® dual fuel system of gas furnace with electric heat pump
• Cool and heat as a gas furnace with electric air conditioner

As an all-in-one unit, the only other thing you need is a control or thermostat and, of course, ductwork to carry the conditioned air. Additionally you can add air quality accessories if you like. Packaged systems may be located on the exterior of your home, either on a flat rooftop or in the yard.

Ductless split systems

Ductless split systems

As you may have guessed from its name, a ductless split system doesn’t rely on air ducts to spread treated air in your home. Instead, this specialty system is designed to heat or cool room additions or other places that may lack ductwork, such as home theatres, exercise rooms, garages or any other area where the existing system doesn’t quite cut it. Ductless split systems include:

• Small outdoor air conditioner or heat pump unit
• A compact indoor wall unit
• Refrigerant tubing and wire connections―pass through a small hole from indoor to outdoor unit to connect the system.
• On unit or remote control―your interface for controlling your system

Hybrid Heat® split systems

Hybrid Heat® split systems

It’s a smarter version of your standard split system, with an energy efficient twist: In addition to gas furnace heat, this system automatically figures out how to get the best efficiency by also using an electricity-fueled heat pump to provide warmth. Bonus―the heat pump functions in the place of an air conditioner too.

In the warmer, humid climates of the south you might consider a high performance heat pump with a lower efficiency and lower up front cost furnace so you can have the furnace as backup heating on really cold nights, while taking advantage of the high-efficiency heat pump most of the year. A heat pump with a variable-speed compressor matched to a furnace with a variable-speed blower motor can do an amazing job of pulling humidity out of the air in the summer to save money.

Meanwhile, in colder climates, it’s best to pair your heat pump with a high-efficiency furnace. Despite the cold, you might be surprised by just how much mileage―not to mention cost-saving efficiency―you’ll get from a heat pump in the spring, fall and, yes, even winter months.

A Hybrid Heat system includes:

• Heat pump―provides summer cooling and dehumidification and warmth in cooler seasons
• Evaporator coil―the indoor component of your outdoor heat pump
• Furnace―provides heating and the fan used year round to circulate air
• Ducts―carry the conditioned air throughout your home
• Control or thermostat―your interface for controlling your system
• Optional air quality accessories―clean, humidify, and freshen air before it circulates throughout your home